Cornish 'maverick spirit' that turned crackpot idea into wine

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Saturday, August 28, 2010
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This is Cornwall

A Westcountry wine lover who converted a simple passion into a successful business in the French heartland has broken into the world of high- class restaurants.

Mark Hellyar, from Harlyn Bay in Cornwall, gave up a successful globetrotting career in IT and software to follow his dream and become a wine producer – a "crackpot idea", dismissed by his wife as the ramblings of a man in a mid-life crisis.

But just five years later the 46-year-old has established himself as a permanent fixture in the renowned Bourdeax region, and his Chateau Civrac now features on some of the most prestigious wine lists in the UK.

Claiming to be the only Cornish vineyard owner around the Gironde estuary, Mark now produces up to 40,000 bottles a year from his 18th-century estate.

And the father-of-two, whose family have farmed in the Padstow area for 500 years, has now fulfilled a lifetime ambition by supplying legendary restaurateur Michel Roux Jr at the acclaimed La Gavroche in London's Mayfair.

"It has been hard work and things have been a bit edgy at times, but when you sit with Michel Roux in his restaurant drinking your own wine, you realise it is all worth it," he said.

"Michael Caines gave me my break about two years ago after I collared him at a Devon food and drink festival – he is a bit philanthropic and ordered a few bottles.

"I like to think I bring a little of the Cornish maverick spirit to the business and am not afraid to just go and knock on people's doors."

Chateau Civrac is the product of a Mark's vision to create a modern wine that combines the qualities of traditional Bordeaux with the spirit of the New World.

He credits much of the success to his business partner and consultant, French ex-rugby player and wine aficionado Olivier Dauga – a man he describes as a combination of French actor Gerard Depardieu and rugby star Sebastian Chaval.

Together the pair selected the stone chateau in the Bordeaux appellation of CĂ´tes de Bourg, between Pomerol and Margaux.

With the vines literally surrounding the house, it is produced without stress to the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec grapes.

And though the 25-acre site is small by Bourdeaux standards, its effect on fine dining in this country and France is growing all the time.

The resulting "new claret" is now supplied to about 50 restaurants and around a dozen independent wine shops in the UK, including one or two in the South West.

Mark said: "The UK pallet is quite special because we have wines from all around the world but we have also cracked around 10 restaurants in Bordeaux."

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  • Profile image for This is Cornwall

    by Charles Henry 1945-(diuturnity), Somersetshire

    Saturday, August 28 2010, 8:14PM

    “:| Chateau Civrac 1993

    Deep garnet turning mahogany at the rim. Leathery mature nose with aromas of blackberries, cassis, plum, cedar, dried fig and forest floor notes. The palate is elegant and mature with notes of forest fruits mingling with dried fruits, winter spices and smooth tannins. This is perfect with roast lamb or mature farmhouse cheeses. Drinking at its peak now and over the next year or two.

    :) No I'm fibbing, but I'm sure it will be delicious. I can't wait to try some.

    http://www.civrac.com/chateau.aspx

    http://www.newbordeaux.com/documents/chateau_civrac.html
    .”

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