IT'S GRAND, imposing and a little out of sorts with its less than glamorous surroundings in St Austell. So it may come as no surprise The Cornwall Hotel Spa & Estate has struggled to attract the locals, despite doing a good trade with out-of-county guests.

It's a shame as its restaurant, The Arboretum, is a stylish enclave – the food has always been impressive, under former head chef Tom Bradbury and now Brett Camborne-Paynter. Now could be the opportune time to get to know the double AA rosette winner – there is currently a special offer on its evening menus: £35 per person for three courses, £27 for two. A good choice for Valentine's perhaps?

Brett brings over 15 years' experience to not only The Arboretum but Acorns brasserie, The Parkland Terrace as well as hosting The Cornwall's popular gourmet weekends. After moving to London, he worked with Jean-Christophe Novelli at The Four Seasons, later moving to The Waldorf, The Ivy, Le Caprice and J Sheekey.

At 30 he returned to Cornwall as head chef of Austell's, which gained two AA rosettes and a Michelin Guide listing within just six months of opening.

He brings his presence to bear at The Cornwall which has a varied and inventive Modern European menu – though on the night I dined he wasn't in the kitchen which might explain why a couple of dishes went a bit awry.

If you can remember every course over a week after visiting, it has to be a good sign that overall this was a pretty good meal.

Service was pleasant if a little robotic and there was a slightly stifling atmosphere of complete silence disrupted by the odd volcanic eruption from a bunch of excitable Mancunian businessmen dining nearby.

The restaurant needs to undo its top button a bit and relax, so the hubbub created by some diners doesn't seem so out of place.

My starter of ballotine of local pheasant, smoked bacon and pistachio with spiced gooseberry chutney and apple salad was an excellent combination of the piquant and the gamey.

However, The Nurse's grilled fillet of marinated Cornish mackerel with crispy squid, honey and ginger dressing looked and – thanks to greasy batter – tasted like a poor pub dish.

Disappointing.

The mains made up for it though – my slow-roasted rump of local lamb with mushroom risotto, carrot and cardamom purée and red wine gravy (I refuse to use the word "jus") was a winner, as was roasted breast of free range chicken with thyme jus, there I've said it, from the daily specials menu.

A beautifully solid but not stodgy bread and butter pudding benefited from an Earl Grey tea syrup, while the vanilla crème brulée with spiced apple compote passed the crack test admirably.

The letdown was the warm almond cake which accompanied it.

They had over-egged the pudding ... literally. Unfortunately, it tasted more like an omelette with hints of almond.

You can forgive the odd error and overall this was a pleasant meal.

The Arboretum Restaurant opening hours: daily from 6.30pm to 9.30pm. Reservations recommended.

To book call 01726 874050 or see www.thecornwall.com